Journal Entry: National Museum Naples & Oplonti to Stabiae

I leave for Florence in the morning. Today was fun, if it did get off to a rough start. I woke up at 6:30a. I was very slow to get going. It was 7:15a before I left the hostel.

I missed the cappuccino place from yesterday. I must have walked right by it. I stopped at a different place. The girl was nice but it wasn’t as good. 

I got two bananas again from the nice lady at the top of the hill. I really like Portici. I’m not sure why.

I caught the Circumvesuviana line to Napoli Centrale. And this is where it gets interesting. The metro lines are just there. No maps, no signs, no ticket office. I’m thoroughly confused. So, I go to the Trenitalia information desk. The man tells me to go to the tourist information. They are closed. So I wander around, I went down to the platform for the metro, but there were no signs (surprise! The Italians must hate signage.) I walked back up the stairs and saw a Tabacchi shop. I asked the shop keep how to get to the National Museum. This was apparently the wrong question. He told me to go to the tourist information upstairs. I told him they are closed. He said they were open. Well, they weren’t, so I wandered around upstairs for a few minutes then decided to go back to the Trenitalia Information and ask some different questions. Like how to buy a ticket! 

Well, it turns out the Tabacchi shop sells them. I also think that you can use the same ticket on the Circumvesuviana line. Ah well, it’s only a few euros wasted! I bought a ticket from the Tabacchi shop and this time asked the right question of which track for the National Museum. He told me number four. The Italians are a strange lot. Much different than Americans. Once on the platform, I only waited a few minutes before a train came. I was near the front and saw one of the workers get off. I said “scuzi, parla l’inglese” and he said “a little.” And he meant it! I asked for the National Museum, but I couldn’t understand his response. So, he enlisted the help of the train driver! He spoke a little more English. He told me to take the next train and get off at the first stop and I would be there. I thanked him and stepped back to wait. Then he called to me and pointed for me to get on. So I did, and it is the stop v. Cavour that one wants. 

Once at the Cavour metro, there were no signs for the museum. I’m sure you are shocked, no?

I asked at a Tabacchi shop, they pointed down the street. I found it and was a little early.

Over all, I liked the museum. I don’t think it is worth the trouble unless you are really into art, archaeology or Pompei. It was a lot of trouble to get to, especially not knowing how to get there, and it wasn’t very big. And Naples is smelly and dirty, not much charm. Portici is a little dirty but has charm!

I did see the biggest statue I’ve ever seen. It was a whole scene in the round, a bull, three people, and a bunch of animals. The crazy thing is, I don’t think I’ve ever even seen a picture of it, in all the art history that I’ve had even! 

Amazing Sculpture in the National Museum of Naples

They also had a nice collection of erotic art from Pompei. I took a lot of pictures.

I was through about 11:40a. I checked out the gift shop but they didn’t have much. I keep seeing tiles I’d like to buy but am afraid they’d get broken. 

Since it was so early, I decided to go to Oplontis. I got on the wrong train on the Circumvesuviana line, the one going to Sorno instead of Sorrento. I don’t know what I was thinking. So I changed trains at Barra. Then I realized I didn’t know which line it was to Sorno, it might have been going to Oplontis. Anyway it was okay. At Oplontis it was nice. I got a Mortadella sandwich from a shop and ate it in the shade before going in.

Oplontis is very small. It’s really just one large villa. There are some very beautiful wall paintings. Unfortunately, my camera said the batteries were running low, so I didn’t take very many pictures. 

I stopped a Tabacchi shop and bought batteries. Only €4. It was a bit off the beaten path.

Then I had the brilliant idea to go to Castlemarre di Stabia, because I had seen the sign at the station for “Stabiae Scavi” – Stabiae ruins.

I first got on the wrong train again! My ticket was only good for a little longer so I decided to get off in New Pompei. That is the station V. and I wound up at [in ’09]. There are two lines and I didn’t realize it. Now I know a bit better, to be forgotten I’m sure by the time I come back here. And I do want to come back here! Everything except Naples is lovely.

I walked all the way from the New town at Pompei to the Pompei Scavi line. I toyed with the idea of just paying €11 to see more of Pompei. I decided against it. I saw online that all of the Archaeolgoical sites are open tonight until late. If I lived here and had a car (and was crazy enough to drive here!) I would so go. I believe admission is free. 

Anyway I bought a ticket to Stabia and one to get back to Portici. I walked down to the beach at Stabia, it’s only a block from the strain station. I had asked about the ruins, but the guy who sells Fuvicula [sic, Funivia] tickets told me it was 6km [Via Nocera is the closest Circumvesuviana station and it's about a mile from there - I should travel with a map, because it's actually only a couple of miles from Castellammare di Stabia, but you'd never find it without a map]. I walked around a bit [in the complete wrong direction in a misguided attempt to find the ruins] the[n] decided I should take the Fuvicula [sic] (I’ve forgotten what it’s called in English, Funicula?) In Western NC we’d call it a lift. It’s not like a ski lift though where you sit down, you stand up in a car.

It cost €7.50. I wish I had just done it to begin with because the last car was 20 minutes after I got to the top. It was thoroughly worth the view though. There was a very impressive view of Vesuvius. I took lots of pictures and video too. [as of last fall, the attraction is closed until sometime in 2014]

The Ride Up

At the top of Mt. Faito

Next time I would like to walk around up there, I think there are walking trails.

After a short panic, where I hoped the guy had sold me a return ticket (being stuck up there was scary), a shop guy at the top confirmed that the ticket was round trip, I went back down. 

I went back to the hostel. On the train there were some young men playing instruments, one an accordion. I’m always impressed how they manage to stand while playing on the train. I filmed them for a bit then gave them €.50. They went on down the train. No one had given them any money. A lady standing next to me said in English, “You shouldn’t give them money! It only encourages them!” I said, “At least they are doing something for it, instead of begging on the street.” That really got to me. You’d have thought they were doing something terrible. I thought they played well too. Maybe they were gypsies? I can’t tell. They might have been Roma, but who cares, at least they are trying to earn money and not picking peoples’ pockets. I just can’t fathom it. I have no patience for intolerance racism or class-ism. 

Anyway, I got some mortadella from a butcher shop down the street, on the narrow stret by the hostel, where I’m surprised pedestrians aren’t mowed down LOL! I also bought a coca light from reception. The mortadella was only €1.10. The beer was cheaper at reception, a can of soda was €1.50. I haven’t been drinking much soda here.

The narrow street by the hostel - cars come flying down it

I also got some gelato on the way to the hostel, nutella flavored and chocolate and I think peanut butter or nut flavored. “Nocciotella” or something like that. They were all very delicious. 

I am going to lay down now and read some of Rick Steve’s “Provence.”