Journal Entry: National Museum Naples & Oplonti to Stabiae

I leave for Florence in the morning. Today was fun, if it did get off to a rough start. I woke up at 6:30a. I was very slow to get going. It was 7:15a before I left the hostel.

I missed the cappuccino place from yesterday. I must have walked right by it. I stopped at a different place. The girl was nice but it wasn’t as good. 

I got two bananas again from the nice lady at the top of the hill. I really like Portici. I’m not sure why.

I caught the Circumvesuviana line to Napoli Centrale. And this is where it gets interesting. The metro lines are just there. No maps, no signs, no ticket office. I’m thoroughly confused. So, I go to the Trenitalia information desk. The man tells me to go to the tourist information. They are closed. So I wander around, I went down to the platform for the metro, but there were no signs (surprise! The Italians must hate signage.) I walked back up the stairs and saw a Tabacchi shop. I asked the shop keep how to get to the National Museum. This was apparently the wrong question. He told me to go to the tourist information upstairs. I told him they are closed. He said they were open. Well, they weren’t, so I wandered around upstairs for a few minutes then decided to go back to the Trenitalia Information and ask some different questions. Like how to buy a ticket! 

Well, it turns out the Tabacchi shop sells them. I also think that you can use the same ticket on the Circumvesuviana line. Ah well, it’s only a few euros wasted! I bought a ticket from the Tabacchi shop and this time asked the right question of which track for the National Museum. He told me number four. The Italians are a strange lot. Much different than Americans. Once on the platform, I only waited a few minutes before a train came. I was near the front and saw one of the workers get off. I said “scuzi, parla l’inglese” and he said “a little.” And he meant it! I asked for the National Museum, but I couldn’t understand his response. So, he enlisted the help of the train driver! He spoke a little more English. He told me to take the next train and get off at the first stop and I would be there. I thanked him and stepped back to wait. Then he called to me and pointed for me to get on. So I did, and it is the stop v. Cavour that one wants. 

Once at the Cavour metro, there were no signs for the museum. I’m sure you are shocked, no?

I asked at a Tabacchi shop, they pointed down the street. I found it and was a little early.

Over all, I liked the museum. I don’t think it is worth the trouble unless you are really into art, archaeology or Pompei. It was a lot of trouble to get to, especially not knowing how to get there, and it wasn’t very big. And Naples is smelly and dirty, not much charm. Portici is a little dirty but has charm!

I did see the biggest statue I’ve ever seen. It was a whole scene in the round, a bull, three people, and a bunch of animals. The crazy thing is, I don’t think I’ve ever even seen a picture of it, in all the art history that I’ve had even! 

Amazing Sculpture in the National Museum of Naples

They also had a nice collection of erotic art from Pompei. I took a lot of pictures.

I was through about 11:40a. I checked out the gift shop but they didn’t have much. I keep seeing tiles I’d like to buy but am afraid they’d get broken. 

Since it was so early, I decided to go to Oplontis. I got on the wrong train on the Circumvesuviana line, the one going to Sorno instead of Sorrento. I don’t know what I was thinking. So I changed trains at Barra. Then I realized I didn’t know which line it was to Sorno, it might have been going to Oplontis. Anyway it was okay. At Oplontis it was nice. I got a Mortadella sandwich from a shop and ate it in the shade before going in.

Oplontis is very small. It’s really just one large villa. There are some very beautiful wall paintings. Unfortunately, my camera said the batteries were running low, so I didn’t take very many pictures. 

I stopped a Tabacchi shop and bought batteries. Only €4. It was a bit off the beaten path.

Then I had the brilliant idea to go to Castlemarre di Stabia, because I had seen the sign at the station for “Stabiae Scavi” – Stabiae ruins.

I first got on the wrong train again! My ticket was only good for a little longer so I decided to get off in New Pompei. That is the station V. and I wound up at [in ’09]. There are two lines and I didn’t realize it. Now I know a bit better, to be forgotten I’m sure by the time I come back here. And I do want to come back here! Everything except Naples is lovely.

I walked all the way from the New town at Pompei to the Pompei Scavi line. I toyed with the idea of just paying €11 to see more of Pompei. I decided against it. I saw online that all of the Archaeolgoical sites are open tonight until late. If I lived here and had a car (and was crazy enough to drive here!) I would so go. I believe admission is free. 

Anyway I bought a ticket to Stabia and one to get back to Portici. I walked down to the beach at Stabia, it’s only a block from the strain station. I had asked about the ruins, but the guy who sells Fuvicula [sic, Funivia] tickets told me it was 6km [Via Nocera is the closest Circumvesuviana station and it's about a mile from there - I should travel with a map, because it's actually only a couple of miles from Castellammare di Stabia, but you'd never find it without a map]. I walked around a bit [in the complete wrong direction in a misguided attempt to find the ruins] the[n] decided I should take the Fuvicula [sic] (I’ve forgotten what it’s called in English, Funicula?) In Western NC we’d call it a lift. It’s not like a ski lift though where you sit down, you stand up in a car.

It cost €7.50. I wish I had just done it to begin with because the last car was 20 minutes after I got to the top. It was thoroughly worth the view though. There was a very impressive view of Vesuvius. I took lots of pictures and video too. [as of last fall, the attraction is closed until sometime in 2014]

The Ride Up

At the top of Mt. Faito

Next time I would like to walk around up there, I think there are walking trails.

After a short panic, where I hoped the guy had sold me a return ticket (being stuck up there was scary), a shop guy at the top confirmed that the ticket was round trip, I went back down. 

I went back to the hostel. On the train there were some young men playing instruments, one an accordion. I’m always impressed how they manage to stand while playing on the train. I filmed them for a bit then gave them €.50. They went on down the train. No one had given them any money. A lady standing next to me said in English, “You shouldn’t give them money! It only encourages them!” I said, “At least they are doing something for it, instead of begging on the street.” That really got to me. You’d have thought they were doing something terrible. I thought they played well too. Maybe they were gypsies? I can’t tell. They might have been Roma, but who cares, at least they are trying to earn money and not picking peoples’ pockets. I just can’t fathom it. I have no patience for intolerance racism or class-ism. 

Anyway, I got some mortadella from a butcher shop down the street, on the narrow stret by the hostel, where I’m surprised pedestrians aren’t mowed down LOL! I also bought a coca light from reception. The mortadella was only €1.10. The beer was cheaper at reception, a can of soda was €1.50. I haven’t been drinking much soda here.

The narrow street by the hostel - cars come flying down it

I also got some gelato on the way to the hostel, nutella flavored and chocolate and I think peanut butter or nut flavored. “Nocciotella” or something like that. They were all very delicious. 

I am going to lay down now and read some of Rick Steve’s “Provence.”

Journal Entry: Pompei to Sorrento

I nearly forgot what day it was. I had to look back at the previous entry. I woke up at 6:15a, got dressed and headed to the Circumvesuviana station. That hike up Via Libertá is a killer. Especially when your legs are already sore. About half way up I spied a coffee place and got a cappuccino. Well, actually I asked for an espresso and the man insisted I have a cappuccino. I didn’t argue. It cost a €1.20 and was very good. Then up just before you turn to go to the station I saw a little whole-in-the-wall [sic] fruit seller. I got two bananas this morning and ate both of them and also took a Naproxen.

On the way out of the station at Pompei I saw a cute shirt I wanted. It was €20 and I told the lady I would come back and buy it in the afternoon. 

Oh, and while on the train, it is the kind where the seats face each other, and I sat down because I was tired of being on my feet. This guy sits across from me and I think he was purposely touching my knees with his. I kept pulling away until I couldn’t squeeze against the wall any more, and he kept spreading out!

Anyway, after I looked at the shirt, I started walking. It seems they use only the new station now. When V. and I traveled three years ago, we arrived at Pompei’s new town and had to walk a ways to the entrance. This new station is right across from one of the entrances [It’s not a “new” station, it was just a different way to go]. I however, walked all the way to the one nearer the new town because I wanted to see if the Burger King where we had eaten was still there. It was, however, I saw a “Wild West Steak House,” I made plans to check it out.  

The Circumvesuviana Stop for the Ruins of Pompei

I walked across the street to the gate and peeked through. Two dogs were playing near a lady who worked at the site. Another dog came up to where I was standing, outside the gate, and lay down. I was about 15 minutes early, they open at 8:30a. So, I waited. Finally, right on the dot, the lady came towards the gate. The two dogs on the inside were following her gleefully. The dog on my side of the gate started wagging it’s tail. 

 

The Dogs of Pompei

One of the dogs came up to me and put his nose through the bars. I let it sniff my hand and the lady said something in Italian, to which I said “no capsico”  and she mimed biting. I don’t think that the dog would have bitten me, but I withdrew my hand.

I told her that I had seven dogs at home, well actually I told her six because I suck at counting in Italian. I pointed to my chest and said “sei cani in America” and she was like “wow” but not in so many words. She told me they had seven or eight stray dogs at Pompei. The Italians love dogs or they would have had them removed. I thought they were all people friendly, of course, some people are assholes and would provoke them so it’s best to say just don’t touch them. Also, the dogs all looked healthy and a couple were a bit plump.  

Two of them did get into a posturing match when this other lady went to mark my ticket. Mind you, I was the only one there at this hour, she kept telling them “Basta! Basta!” which I knew what that means from Jan. It means “enough”, but harshly. A man sweeping nearby pounded his broom on the ground and they both bolted. Silly dogs. 

 

Pet me!

Once in the site, I went to the amphitheater first. The walkway to it was new too I think because I don’t remember being able to go that way. I actually did not see the amphitheater last time. I had the place to myself for a good thirty minutes. I had walked a bit before I saw another tourist.  

 

Pompei

Of course the site is so big that, with the exception of the Forum area, and the occasional obnoxious school tour group, you often can have a building to yourself if you wait a few minutes. 

I also saw some buildings that I hadn’t seen before. I took lots of good pictures. I filled up my 4GB memory card. Good thing I have two bigger ones!

Oh! And the highlight of today was, near the end of the time at Pompei, when I was working my way toward the exit because I was hungry, I saw a tour group coming down a road that only goes so far before it ends at a gate. I started up the road, and there was an open house at the top. I saw a guard disappear inside. I went in, and it seems now that he was probably checking to make sure that no one had stayed behind, because he told me that the house was closed. I said I was sorry and turned to leave. There were about four other people who had followed me up the road. He then said, ‘oh, you can see it, quickly.’ 

A guard let us into a closed house - the frescoes were amazing

So I got to see a house that usually isn’t open to the public. And what was really cool were these frescoes of wild animals in the garden. We took a few minutes and then the guard came and told us we had to go. I followed him and on the way out thanked him profusely and told him it was amazing. 

The garden

Unfortunately my favorite garden in the place was closed for restoration.

After I left I went and had lunch. I stopped in the “Wild West Steak House” and asked the girl if they had an English menu and she gave me one. She was very nice.

I had a pork shoulder for lunch! It came with potatoes, that I really couldn’t eat after all that meat. It was only €10. Plus €2.50 for water and service. I had meant to leave her a little extra, but then forgot unfortunately. 

 

Pork and Potatoes

After I ate, I took the train to Sorrento. It was worth the train ride. There doesn’t appear to be much to do there, but it is pleasant. I walked down to the port.

 

Sorrento

I tripped going up some steps, for the second(!) time today. My feet are just tired and I keep looking at amazing things so I’m not looking where I’m stepping. On my part though, the step I tripped on was taller than the previous ones, so my toe caught it. Luckily I wasn’t hurt and I didn’t break the camera. I need to be more careful. The first time I tripped today was at Pompei. The paving stones in one house were uneven. I was gawking at the walls and missed the unevenness. That one hurt, my thighs, because I caught myself and went down slowly as if I were going to purposely kneel. However my legs were already very sore from all the walking. 

 

Pompei: The paving stones were uneven and I tripped

I called Jan to let her know that my phone was dying and that I was going to turn it off and I wouldn’t be able to plug it in until I got back to the hostel. I was so jetlagged that I hadn’t noticed the PIN to the SIM card was David’s birthday. [redacted] LOL! I fixed the phone though so I won’t have to type it in. If you get it wrong three times, I think the SIM card is useless then.

Jan told me that Andy and Sammy miss me a lot. Andy is apparently a wreck and Sammy has been sitting out on the front porch staring at my car. I started crying (and I’m tearing up now!) She told me not to cry that they would be okay, and that Sammy was getting enough treats to make him a fatty dog.

This entry is huge! I just had so much fun today. On the way out of Sorrento I got gelato, kiwi flavored and white chocolate flavored. Yum!

I took a stroll after I sent Jan an email, and actually found a butcher’s shop. It’s up the alley that the hostel is on. If I have a difficult time finding something to eat tomorrow I will go there and get some mortadella.

I am going to the National Archaeology Museum in Naples tomorrow, and maybe Oplontis. So far, knock on wood, I have the room to myself. There were five girls in a group in here last night, two of them were sick with a cold (suck a zinc!) and the others, one sounded like an older woman, was rude when she came in. If someone is in bed, you try to keep it down. Also, the girls didn’t offer to turn off the room light for me, since I was trying to sleep. Each bed has it’s own light (and fan!) I do love this hostel, despite its flaws (like nowhere to dress except in the open in the showers, and nowhere to hang your toiletries).