Journal Entry: Montsegur, Foix and Roquefixade

I am back late! I had a fantastic day. I returned to my room at L’Abbaye to find the cleaning lady had changed out my towels and made my bed! How nice is that? And to think this place had bad reviews on tripadvisor. It is grand for €18 a night!

 

View from Hostel Room

So I went to Le Trouvere for dinner. I had cassoulet. Yum! I had a whole pitcher of wine too, but was not as tipsy (see: drunk) as the other night. I think I drank too fast the other night. I was thirsty I figured out what their [the waiters] shirts said too. I asked Jan what “Pompiers” was because I kept seeing it. The waiters at Le Trouvere had shirts that said “Pompiers: Service Extinction de la Soif.” Which I think means something like, they’re firemen, and will serve you drinks to get rid of your thirst. 

I think wine must have anti-inflammatory properties, because my knees were hurting but not now!

And why were my knees hurting you ask? Because I climbed not only Montségur, but also Foix’s two towers and Roquefixade! 

 

Montségur from the Village

So I got to Montségur early. I went to the bathroom in the village. The Italians have been by. There were no toilet seats. [Hahah!] They didn’t open until 10a but I hiked up to where they sell tickets. I sat down because it’s quite a walk even to there. A few minutes later a German couple came by with a dog. She asked me something in French, about it being closed. I pointed out the obvious and I think she was annoyed by that LOL. [Annoyed that I suck at languages.] So I told her I didn’t know if you could go on up or not. There was no sign saying it was closed. So about a minute later, some Australians came down. They said you could go up without paying if you got there before 10a.

We went on up. The climb was much easier than before. The view amazing. Beautiful. I sat up there for a while contemplating things. (Life. Death. Rebirth. [redacted] Etc. Petty stuff really). That and admiring the scenery.

 

View from the Top

Beautiful!

A series of small walls...

The Memorial at the bottom of the mountain

A closer picture of the memorial

Montségur from the Parking Lot

On the way back down, I stopped at the guard house and paid for a ticket. I didn’t have to, but I want to support the site. 

 

Ticket Office

I then went to the village, and looked around the museum. Didn’t see anything I wanted to buy. I went to a trinket shop and bought two stamps. That was all she had. I used them to mail Andy and Jan a postcard from the village. I also bought a sticker. “OC”

Then I went to Foix. On the way I saw a sign for another chateau, Roquefixade. I thought I might go by there after Foix. 

I climbed both towers that are open to the public.  They were having a contemporary art exhibit in them. It was weird. The oldest tower, I think it may be Roman is not open to the public. It’s probably empty inside, and maybe unstable. I say it’s Roman because in the tour of Carcassonne’s towers, they said the Romans liked to use a layer of bricks to level a wall, and that tower had the same style as the Roman wall at Carcassonne. It’s on a hill by a River, great place to build. 

Towers at Foix

After Foix I was starving, and they, being like the Italians and Spanish, shut down the town in the afternoon, so there was nowhere to eat. So I went to the McDonalds near the highway. I think V. and I must have eaten there, as it looked familiar. 

After eating I was feeling awesome, so instead of going back to Carcassonne, I went to Roquefixade. Amazing drive! Words certainly don’t do it justice. Pictures neither.

I looked at the chateau and thought it didn’t look that high. Heh. About halfway up my knees started hurting and it was hot, with no shade. But finally there was shade. And on the way up, I saw the Germans with the dog from this morning. I said “bonjour” and the man said, I think, “une autre chateau” – another fortress! His dog barked at me. It was cute. 

 

The French don't care if you fall off the mountain

Beautiful!

Part of a wall

More walls

Then I made it up. While I was up there, two German girls with their dog “Baloo” came up. I had asked them if you could drive closer to the bottom [of the fortress while down below]. Baloo reminded me of Buffy. He was running around, about to fall off the cliff. Crazy dog. The chateau is all ruins. A few walls left standing. I thought I could see Montségur from there. Some castle could be seen anyway. Sorta south-east I think. 

Baloo the dog

Which chateau?

I made it back down in one piece. I saw Baloo had hurt his back paw tho. Poor puppy! 

I made it back to Carcassonne fine too. I’m tired. Bed. I need to pack in the morning. And get gas in the rental car too. Good night!

Journal Entry: Puylaurens & Puivert

I woke up a little after 6a this morning. I did not want to get out of bed. I had to make myself. “I can sleep at home.”

Breakfast was decent. I had a croissant with cream cheese on it, some cheddar cheese and a fruit cup. All this wheat is making my knees hurt I think, but it is difficult to avoid. It’s all they eat here. It’s also messed up my digestion. But I won’t go into that! 

After breakfast, I drove to Puylaurens. I was early. I got there about 9a and they don’t open until 10a. So, I wandered around the village. There is a river that runs through it, well actually it’s probably a large creek. The village name is Lapradelle-Puilaurens, or in Occitan Lapradèla-Puèglaurenç. 

 

Puylaurens from the Village

At 10a I went up to the fortress. Admission was €4. The hike was not that bad. It was a little dangerous in places if you weren’t careful. [The French have no problem letting you fall off the mountain if you’re going to be stupid.]

 

Beautiful Country

Flowers Find a Way

Puylaurens Courtyard

I spent about an hour there. There was one barrel, hmm, not barrel vaulted, a different kind of vault. I forget what they call it, but it has four ribs that come to a point in the middle. 

I'm not an architect - Groin Vault?

After that I drove to Puivert. It was very interesting. It cost €5 to go in, and the donjon was pretty much still intact. It had apparently been occupied since the middle ages until the revolution by the same family. It was not altered supposedly, so [it] is one of the most authentic and intact medieval castles in all of Europe. I need to read up on it when I get home. They had horses grazing there too. 

 

Puivert Castle

Chapel in Puivert

After that I came back to Carcassonne about 8p. I took the tour of the castle (donjon) and ramparts. Unfortunately I missed the guided tour of the western ramparts beause the last one I saw leaving was in French and I mistakenly thought there would be one in English. Next time! It cost €8.50, and was worth it. I spent about 2 hours there. They had a museum with stone work from the walls, or other buildings nearby. 

I ate dinner at Le Trouvere. Their burger was mediocre, I was disappointed because they used to be so good. It was on plain white commercial bun, which hadn’t even been toasted. Meh. And their service sucked tonight. I might eat somewhere else tomorrow. I want more Cassoulet!

I got an icecream cone, gelato, (not as good as in Italy) and walked around the lists a few times. I was going to wait until it got dark but I was very tired so I came on back here.

I took a shower. I washed my clothes in the shower, including my pants. I hope they dry. They were incredibly difficult to wring out, even though they seem so light weight. 

Tomorrow I am going to Montségur and Foix I think. I don’t know if I’ll climb Montségur. I’ll have to see how my knees feel. It’s on the way to Foix though so I’ll at least stop in the village.

Journal Entry: Peyrepertuse and Queribus

8:36pm

Exhausted. But happy. It was an amazing day. First we went to Rennes-le-Chateau but the church didn't open until 10am. So we went to find food for lunch back in the prior village, Couiza. There was a patisserie there and we went in and bought food. Katy speaks French, and so she helped us order.

Then we went on an adventure to get gas. We stopped at three places and none of the machines would take my card. Either card. Even the American Express which has a chip in it. Finally we found a manned gas station in Limoux (having driven all the way back from Couiza) that did not have a card reader at the pump and that took cash, by a real person. Katy was a lifesaver. She asked them if they took cash and they did. We got diesel in the car finally, it cost almost €18. Not bad for all the running around we had done.

By this time we headed back to Rennes-le-Chateau, and the parking area that had been deserted when we first arrived was nearly full. I expected the church to be crowded but it wasn't. There was also a museum and the Tour Magdala that cost money to get into. We didn't care to see them, just the church. It was pretty and really weird. V. asked, "Why is Joseph holding a baby?" I can see why people think it's odd.


We only spent a little time there before heading to Peyrepertuse. Jan, the lady who runs the hostel, had told us to stop at the Galamus Gorge. I really wanted to see the castles, and since we got off a bit late because of the “gazole” fiasco.

Peyrepertuse was absolutely amazing. A lot of the walls are still left, and some rooms too. I really need to go and look up historical information on it. It was a long climb to the top, not as long or steep as Montségur, but I was already tired from the climb yesterday.



Quèribus was good too, but smaller than Peyrepertuse. There was a really cool ceiling in it. The climb up to Quèribus was much easier than the other two.



Then we went to see the Gorges, and they were really cool. We were very glad that Jan told us to go there. (That's Jan at the hostel, not Jan my mother-in-law).

There was an abbey, cut into the cliff, dedicated to San Antonio. (Saint Anthony/Antoine). I bought a post card for Jan (mother-in-law) since she's interested in places dedicated to him, and she's not even religious, so that's kinda funny.



The dorm really is like a dungeon, and quite damp. We had to hang our towels outside on the line because they weren't drying in the dorm. I really like the hostel otherwise, the common room is nice, the location is great, but the dorm is damp and cold.

Jan (of the hostel) said that she knows some people in the village that have an apartment they rent out, so if Andy and I ever come here, we should contact her about that. He hates sharing a bathroom and Sidsmum's doesn't have any accommodation with a private bath.

Now I go to take a shower and hit the hay. We leave for Paris tomorrow a little after noon.

The above picture reads:
"On this bare rock that pierces the Sabine
Where the eagle in his flight only dared to come
Dangling from a cord with a pickaxe
Man, like the birds, has found a way."

I sure hope I find a way back there, because it is a very beautiful place and I think I left a piece of my heart there...